In the glittering heart of Champagne, France’s sparkling wine capital, where marquee names jostle for the spotlight, Pol Roger is a bit of a paradox—understated, classic, and utterly iconic. Tucked away in Épernay since 1849, this family-owned house has quietly built a reputation as a champagne lover’s champagne, beloved by insiders and traditionalists alike.

I had the pleasure of meeting Bastien Collard de Billy, a sixth-generation family member and current Secretary General and Export Manager of Pol Roger. His deep connection to the house’s heritage and pride in maintaining its exacting standards were unmistakable. This isn’t just a business—it’s a legacy.

One detail that absolutely surprised and delighted me? Pol Roger employs four full-time professional riddlers. Pol Roger remains true to its roots in an industry that has largely turned to machines for this part of the process. These cellar experts combine science and magic, meticulously rotating each bottle by hand, ensuring clarity, finesse, and a connection to centuries-old méthode traditionnelle. It’s a rare commitment to craft that speaks volumes.

The Brut Réserve (affectionately known as “White Foil”) is a masterclass in balance: Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Chardonnay in perfect harmony. Expect green apple, lemon curd, toasted brioche, and that signature chalky Épernay zip. The 2016 Vintage Black Foil is crafted from only Premier Cru vineyards, comprising 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Their 2018 Rosé is composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, with 15% Pinot Noir still wine added to the blend, a higher inclusion rate than most producers typically use. The Rosé has a definite structure and can be served during the main course. Pol Roger’s ‘Rich’ Demi-Sec is a delicious and well-balanced wine. …and it’s practically made for indulgent pairings like foie gras or a decadent dessert. It makes up just 0.5% of their production, so if you spot a bottle, consider it your lucky day.

There’s something quietly confident about Pol Roger. It doesn’t clamour for attention—it earns your respect. It’s the bottle you open when you want elegance without pretense, the wine you share with someone who truly gets Champagne.

Pol Roger wines are available at most BCLDB stores and select private stores, including Legacy, Liberty, and Everything Wine.

*I have also included Pol Roger’s Brut Reserve (White Label) as an example of wines to try in my latest VITIS article on ‘dosage’ in the spring/summer issue of the magazine.